The review. An in-depth analysis of new and existing restaurants in the Vail Valley.

No Longer In Business

Last night we dined at Alicante.

The Inn at Lionshead is the latest incarnation of the old Enzian Lodge which has been purchased and remodeled by long time local Eustaquio Cortina. The restaurant area has also undergone an inexpensive, yet attractive clean-up/paint-up makeover that suggests the ownership is still debating whether or not to gamble significant dollars on an eatery that has gone through many peaks and valleys over the years.

And that dinner spot's now known as Alicante. exactly what niche market the restaurant is trying to fill is still a question mark. The menu is eclectic (to a fault) - the wine list is sparse but passable, and the food offerings we sampled were extremely satisfying.

It appears the overall theme is Mediterranean. This statement of theme covers a lot of territory - from Spain to Morocco to Italy to Algeria. Wine offerings are predominately Italian, but we did enjoy two pleasant domestic wines - a lovely Quivira Zin and a glyceriney textured viognier that benefited from the removal of its spritziness by stoppering and shaking the bottle several times.

My pork noissettes with gnocchi were close to perfection, and my companion's ribbon pasta with shredded chicken exploded with flavor. Portions were robust. The sauces were extraordinary - much like a wonderful Bordeaux or Cabernet with clean, bright flavors that expand on the palate and carry through to a fine, lingering finish.

Highlights: It's the food - period. The wines are acceptable but nothing special. Prices are moderate (for Vail). At this point it's easy to get a table. The basket of mixed breads with unseasoned olive oil was excellent.

Lowlights: This restaurant just opened. Service was lax, slow, and marginal at best. Greeter and servers would barely qualify for work at an ordinary pizzeria. Hopefully the chef/owner will start paying some attention outside the kitchen. Otherwise it will be a rough ride for all concerned. Nonetheless we rate this a on the basis of food quality alone.

No longer in business in 2004.

Reviewed by ORP on 12/22/97

Previously reviewed: La Bottega

Back to "The Best of Vail" or the Main Page.